Abertam Cheese from Czechia – A Guide

Abertam is a traditional, semi-hard to hard sheep’s milk cheese from the Krušné hory mountains in Czechia. It boasts a distinctive sharp, salty, and slightly piquant flavor that deepens with age. This robust cheese is a protected geographical indication (PGI) product, celebrated for its artisanal production methods and deep cultural roots in the Bohemian region.

Distinctive Features

Abertam cheese is typically formed into small, cylindrical wheels weighing between 1 to 1.5 kilograms. Its natural rind is thin, firm, and pale yellow to light brown in color, often bearing the marks of the traditional cloth used during aging. The interior paste is ivory to pale yellow and can range from semi-firm to hard and crumbly depending on its age. Younger cheeses are supple and slightly moist, while older versions become granular and intensely flavorful.

The aroma is distinctly sheepy and lactic, with earthy undertones that speak to its natural aging environment. Its flavor profile is robust, starting with a pronounced saltiness followed by a sharp, tangy finish. The fat in dry matter content is typically around 45-50%, giving it a rich mouthfeel without being overly fatty. This cheese possesses a unique balance of acidity and umami that makes it a memorable culinary experience.

Cheese Varieties

The primary variety of Abertam is defined by its aging time. Young Abertam, aged for about four to six weeks, is milder and more pliable. It is often enjoyed as a table cheese or melted in traditional dishes. This version has a lighter color and a less intense sheep milk character compared to its aged counterpart.

Old Abertam, sometimes called ‘Abertam Starý’, is aged for three months or longer. This extended aging process concentrates its flavors, resulting in a much sharper, saltier, and almost peppery cheese. The texture becomes hard and granular, making it excellent for grating over dishes. While variations are limited due to its PGI status, some producers may offer smoked versions, which are lightly smoked over beechwood to add a subtle, woody complexity to the flavor profile.

History and Traditions

Abertam cheese production dates back to the 16th century in the Ore Mountains (Krušné hory) region of Bohemia. Local shepherds developed the cheese as a way to preserve surplus sheep’s milk during the summer grazing season. The mountainous terrain and specific climatic conditions of the region contributed to the unique microbial environment essential for the cheese’s character. This area is also famous for its glassmaking, mining history, and spa towns like Karlovy Vary.

The cheese is named after the town of Abertamy, which was a central hub for its production and trade. For centuries, it was a staple food for miners and forestry workers due to its high nutritional value and long shelf life. The tradition of making Abertam was nearly lost during the 20th century but was revived after the Velvet Revolution by dedicated artisans. Today, enjoying Abertam with a slice of dark rye bread and a glass of beer is considered a classic Czech pub snack, connecting modern diners to a rich pastoral history.

Production Process

The production of Abertam begins with raw, whole sheep’s milk from herds grazing on the mountain pastures. The milk is gently warmed and coagulated using traditional animal rennet. The resulting curd is cut into small rice-sized grains to expel whey efficiently. This careful cutting is crucial for achieving the cheese’s characteristic dense, slightly crumbly texture later on.

The curds are then pressed into cylindrical moulds and lightly salted, either by brining or dry salting. The cheeses are aged in cool, humid cellars for a minimum of four weeks. During this aging period, they are regularly turned and brushed with a salt solution to develop the rind and prevent unwanted mold. The entire process relies on time-honored techniques passed down through generations, with minimal technological intervention to preserve its artisanal quality and PGI status.

Wine or Beverage Pairings

Abertam’s sharp and salty profile pairs wonderfully with a variety of beverages. Classic regional pairings include Czech lagers and pilsners, whose crisp carbonation and mild bitterness cut through the cheese’s richness. A dark, malty Czech tmavé pivo (dark beer) also complements its earthy notes beautifully. For wine lovers, a dry, high-acid white wine like a Moravian Riesling or a Grüner Veltliner provides a refreshing contrast.

Internationally, a French Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley or a Spanish Albariño would be excellent choices. The cheese’s intensity can also stand up to lighter red wines, such as a Austrian Blaufränkisch or a Beaujolais Villages. For a non-alcoholic option, a tart apple cider or a sparkling mineral water with a squeeze of lemon cleanses the palate effectively between bites of this flavorful cheese.

Suitable Fruit and Vegetables

The robust flavor of Abertam cheese benefits from the sweet and acidic counterpoints provided by fresh and preserved fruits. Crisp apples and firm pears are classic partners, their juiciness balancing the cheese’s saltiness. Tart berries like cranberries or lingonberries, often in the form of a compote, add a vibrant, fruity acidity that enhances the cheese’s complexity.

Among vegetables, pickled offerings are particularly successful. A sharp pickled cucumber or tangy sauerkraut provides a crunchy, acidic contrast that highlights the cheese’s creamy undertones. For a fresh element, bitter greens like radicchio or endive can be used in a salad to create a pleasant contrast of flavors. Roasted root vegetables, such as carrots or beets, offer a sweet, earthy base that complements the cheese’s rustic character.

Suitable Meat and Fish dishes

Abertam cheese is a fantastic ingredient for enriching meat-based dishes. Grated old Abertam can be used as a flavorful topping for grilled sausages, especially the Czech specialty ‘utopenci’ (pickled sausages). It melts beautifully, making it an excellent choice for sprinkling over a traditional svíčková, a braised beef dish with a creamy vegetable sauce. The cheese’s saltiness enhances the savoriness of the meat without overpowering it.

For fish, its strong character pairs best with oily, robust varieties. Flake it over a warm potato salad served with smoked mackerel or trout. It can also be incorporated into a stuffing for baked river fish, adding a sharp, salty dimension. While not a typical pairing with delicate white fish, Abertam can be crumbled into a fish chowder or stew to add depth and a tangy finish to the broth.

Questions and answers

Presentation

Remove Abertam cheese from the refrigerator at least one hour before serving. This allows it to reach its ideal serving temperature of around 18-20°C, which fully releases its aromatic compounds and softens its texture. Present it on a simple wooden board or a slate plate to emphasize its rustic, artisanal origins. Arrange a whole small wheel or large wedges to show off its natural rind and pale interior.

Use a strong cheese knife with a forked tip for serving hard, aged Abertam, as it can be crumbly. A standard cheese plane works well for shaving thin slices from a younger, semi-firm wheel. For eating, provide each guest with a small cheese knife. Accompany the cheese with its suggested pairings like dark bread, apple slices, and pickles, arranging them neatly around the central cheese board to create an inviting and balanced presentation.

Recipe Ideas

Abertam and Potato Bramboráky (Czech Potato Pancakes)

Bramboráky are a beloved Czech street food and a perfect vehicle for the sharp flavor of Abertam. Adding grated cheese to the potato batter creates a crispy, golden pancake with a wonderfully savory and molten cheesy center. This recipe transforms a simple snack into a more substantial dish ideal for a lunch or a hearty appetizer. Serve them hot with a dollop of sour cream and a sprinkle of fresh chives for a truly authentic experience.

The key to perfect bramboráky is squeezing all excess moisture from the grated potatoes to ensure maximum crispiness. The Abertam cheese not only provides flavor but also helps bind the mixture together. These pancakes are best enjoyed immediately after cooking while the exterior is still crackling and the cheese inside is delightfully soft.

• 500 g starchy potatoes (e.g., Russets), peeled and grated
• 150 g Abertam cheese, grated
• 1 small onion, finely grated
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tbsp all-purpose flour
• 1 large egg, lightly beaten
• 1 tsp marjoram
• Salt and black pepper to taste
• Oil or lard for frying
• Sour cream and chives to serve

1. Place the grated potatoes in a clean kitchen towel and squeeze tightly to remove all starchy liquid.
2. In a large bowl, combine the dried potatoes, grated Abertam, onion, garlic, flour, egg, marjoram, salt, and pepper. Mix thoroughly until well combined.
3. Heat a generous layer of oil or lard in a large frying pan over medium heat.
4. Take spoonfuls of the mixture and flatten them into patties about 1 cm thick. Fry in batches for 3-4 minutes per side, until deep golden brown and crispy.
5. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately with a spoonful of sour cream and a sprinkle of fresh chives.

Warm Abertam Dip with Rye Bread Croutons

This warm, bubbly dip showcases the melting qualities and intense flavor of Abertam cheese. It is an effortless yet impressive dish for entertaining, combining the cheese with beer for a truly Czech flavor profile. The dip is rich, creamy, and possesses a delightful tang from the cheese and the lager. It is the ultimate comfort food for sharing with friends on a chilly evening.

The rye bread croutons are not just a serving vessel; their earthy, slightly sour flavor is the perfect crunchy contrast to the smooth, hot dip. You can prepare the dip ahead of time and simply bake it before your guests arrive, making it a stress-free option for a host. A garnish of crispy fried onions adds a final textural and flavorful punch.

• 250 g Abertam cheese, grated
• 200 g cream cheese, softened
• 120 ml Czech lager or pilsner
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tsp sweet paprika
• 1 small loaf of dark rye bread, cubed
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 1 tsp caraway seeds (optional)
• 2 tbsp fried onions for garnish (optional)

1. Preheat your oven to 180°C (350°F).
2. Toss the cubed rye bread with olive oil and caraway seeds (if using). Spread on a baking sheet and toast for 10-15 minutes until crispy, stirring once. Set aside.
3. In a medium bowl, combine the grated Abertam, cream cheese, lager, minced garlic, and paprika. Mix until well blended.
4. Transfer the mixture to a small ovenproof dish and bake for 20-25 minutes, until hot, bubbly, and lightly golden on top.
5. Garnish with fried onions and serve immediately with the prepared rye bread croutons for dipping.

Similar Cheeses and Alternatives

If Abertam is unavailable, several other sheep’s milk cheeses can provide a similar tasting experience. Bryndza, a soft, spreadable sheep’s milk cheese also from Central Europe, offers a similarly tangy and salty profile, though with a much softer texture. Polish Oscypek is a smoked sheep’s milk cheese that shares a firm, dense texture and a robust flavor, though the smoking process adds a distinct woody note. Another excellent alternative is the Spanish Manchego, which is also a firm sheep’s milk cheese with a sharp, nutty character that matures with age. For a cheese from a similar terroir, look to Austrian Bergkäse, which is often made from cow’s milk but possesses a comparable Alpine sharpness and complexity. These alternatives can be used in cooking or on a cheese board to evoke a similar culinary spirit to that of authentic Abertam.