Morbier de Chèvre Cheese from Chad
Discover Morbier de Chèvre from Chad, a unique goat cheese with a distinctive ash layer and rich, creamy flavor. Perfect for cheese boards.
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Vegetable Ash Cheese
Definition and Scope
Vegetable ash cheese refers to a category distinguished by the application of food-grade charcoal derived from burned vegetables. This technique primarily affects rind development and appearance, creating a distinctive gray to black exterior. The practice originated in European monastic traditions as a method to regulate moisture and acidity during aging. These cheeses are not defined by milk type, allowing for variations from goat to cow or sheep milk bases.
The scope of vegetable ash cheese includes both fresh, young varieties and aged specimens where the ash influences the rind’s microbial environment. It is a stylistic technique rather than a flavoring agent, though it can impact the final taste profile indirectly. This category is recognized within broader cheese classifications for its unique visual and technical characteristics. The ash layer can be applied to the exterior, mixed into the paste, or used as a dividing layer in layered cheeses.
Production Process
Production begins with standard cheese making steps: milk coagulation, curd cutting, and draining. The critical differentiation occurs when vegetable ash is introduced, typically after the initial draining phase. For exterior-coated cheeses, the young cheese is rolled in fine ash powder to create a uniform coating. For interior ash varieties, the ash is sprinkled between layers of curd before pressing, creating a marbled effect.
The ash coating serves multiple technical functions during aging, including pH regulation and moisture control. It creates a favorable environment for specific mold growth, particularly Geotrichum candidum, which contributes to rind development. The charcoal particles absorb excess surface moisture, preventing undesirable bacterial growth while allowing proper air exchange. This controlled environment enables the development of complex flavors and textures during the maturation period.
Sensory Profile
Vegetable ash cheeses typically present a striking visual contrast between their dark exterior and bright white interior paste. The ash itself is tasteless and does not contribute direct flavor, but it significantly influences the cheese’s development. Young ash cheeses often display fresh, milky flavors with pronounced acidity and a clean finish. The texture ranges from soft and spreadable in fresh varieties to semi-firm in aged versions.
As these cheeses age, the ash-influenced rind development leads to more complex flavor profiles. Common tasting notes include earthy, mushroomy characteristics with subtle mineral undertones. The paste typically maintains a creamy, smooth texture while developing more pronounced savory notes. The balance between the mild interior and the more developed rind creates a harmonious tasting experience with layered complexity.
Culinary Applications
Vegetable ash cheeses serve both aesthetic and functional purposes in culinary applications. Their dramatic appearance makes them excellent for cheese boards and presentation-focused dishes. Fresh varieties work well in salads, sandwiches, and as accompaniments to fresh fruits, where their bright acidity provides contrast. The visual appeal enhances composed dishes where the cheese serves as a central component.
Aged vegetable ash cheeses develop sufficient complexity to stand alone as table cheeses or dessert course offerings. They pair exceptionally with crisp white wines, sparkling wines, and light-bodied reds that complement their earthy notes. In cooking, these cheeses melt well for sauces and baked dishes, though their distinctive appearance is often preserved in applications where visual presentation matters. They also complement nuts, honey, and crusty breads in various serving contexts.
Regional Examples
France produces several iconic vegetable ash cheeses, most notably Sainte-Maure de Touraine. This AOP-protected goat cheese features a central straw through its cylindrical form and a characteristic ash coating. Another French example is Morbier, traditionally made with a layer of ash separating morning and evening milk curds. These cheeses represent the historical use of ash in European cheese making traditions.
Contemporary American cheesemakers have adopted and adapted the vegetable ash technique, creating varieties like Humboldt Fog from California. This goat cheese features a central line of ash and has gained international recognition. Other notable examples include British Tunworth and various artisanal productions from Spain and Italy. These modern interpretations maintain the technical benefits of ash treatment while developing unique regional characteristics.